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Ocean Breeze AC 10k BTU

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Guest

alaska_av8r

11:21 pm August 15, 2010

I have a 3 year old ocean breeze ac reverse cycle unit. I don't know if this matters but the water temps have been from 89-93 degrees here. A few weeks ago AC began causing the fault protection circuit to trip. It lit up a little red light on top of the metal control box and required re-setting the breaker to get it to start again. I called OB and they said that light was because of either low water flow or improper voltage. So I pulled the pump apart, checked the strainer and thru hull everything I could think of and the water flow seemed fine. The water coil has 3 loops the first loop was cool, next warm and last was hot just like the water shooting out the side of the boat. I tried the electrical on shore power and genset and it was fine. So I called them back and the tech said to remove a temp sensor clipped onto one of the lines on the compressor and report back. I did that and the unit did not trip off (light up the red light) anymore but the evaporator froze solid. He said put the temp sensor back on the line and to bleed off some of the freon from the unit. To take an inkpen and stick it in the schrader valve and count to 10. I put the sensor back on the line then bled off some freon and only counted to 5 though. Now the unit does not trip the little red light anymore, but the coil tubes on the ends(not the coil itself as far as I can tell) ice up. The compressor cycles on and off as it runs (I assume the switch i put back on tells the compressor to turn off to de-ice?). Anyway the unit can only bring the cabin down to about 84 degrees during the day and 75 at night with outside temps of 93-99 on a 29 foot cabin cruiser. Is this the best to expect out of this size unit, or any suggestions. I want it colder if I can get it.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1126

8:15 am August 16, 2010

This one may be a bit tough to answer…

First, depending on what type 29 foot cabin cruiser (lots of big windows or not) a 10 K could be marginal in the climate you describe, but if you have had the same combo in the same climate in the last 3 years (age of unit) and it did ok, then we can take it from there…

Next I have to admit that I have not seen an Ocean Breeze unit in the last 3 years to know what type control they are using, or how they are utilizing a given controls protections…

Third…I think the advise you got from factory reps is…Well quite frankly…Absurd…For a factory rep to tell a customer to stick a pen into a schrader valve to let an ozone depleting gas out into the atmosphere is not only illegal, but could cost him much more than his job…

That reason aside…Counting to a count of seconds while letting off that gas tells you virtually nothing (except how to count) about how much refrigerant you have let out…IE: Which schrader valve (high or low side) did he say to let it out from ?  Should the unit be running or not while letting off this gas ?

Not knowing the control you have…Ocean Breeze shows two on their site (Both are from Micro Air & both were used by Marine Air in the past) that I am familiar with…One is a very old Micro Air version that we almost never see in the field anymore, and the other is also one that Marine Air used from 1993 thru 1997…From your description I'm guessing it is the older of the two models, and I think I have a fairly educated guess as to what was / is happening with your unit…

As I have described here in other posts & articles…It's not just seawater flow (although flow is paramount) but also the condition of that water coil, and it's ability to transfer heat to the water…At 3 years of age it's likely in need of a acid flush to remove the scale blanket that builds up over time inside that coil that is acting like an insulating blanket preventing proper heat transfer to the water…Yes this could cause the original shutdown you mention, and the seawater temps you quote can make this worse…

Yes…Letting freon out can lower the head pressure & keep the unit running, but it's not the answer & doing so also lowers the low side pressure thus causing the icing you describe…You solved one problem & caused another two…Icing is one, and compressor overheating is another…

My suggestion is to either flush the water coil yourself, or just get a qualified guy out to both flush the coil, and replace the refrigerant that was let out…You are going to need an experienced guy that has the equipment to charge the unit anyway, and it shouldn't take him much longer to do the flush…Make sure he knows that you let out gas, and to do the flush first…If he adds gas before flushing the coil…He may need to add more after the flush as the condenser will perform better, and the unit will again seem low on refrigerant…

It also may be one way to tell how experienced he is  Wink

Again…Not that I don't believe you…But a factory rep telling you to let out gas is unbelievable.

Steve~

Guest

alaska_av8r

10:42 pm August 16, 2010

Thanks for the reply what you said makes sense to me and for some reason I just didn't have much faith in how he told me to troubleshoot the unit. I knew on my home unit that when it developed a leak the first sign was the unit freezing up. So I was really skeptical to release any freon with those symptoms but he was the factory tech. I will look into the acid flush, the unit has not been used too much but could probably use a good cleaning along with the freon level checked. I will look on here for the acid flush procedure I think someone mentioned you had it posted on here somewhere.


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