Hi Ray~

Just so you know (if Dometic didn't quote it)

The Hi pressure switch, and adaptor tee kit is Part # 297000012  the price in the book shows it at $105.00.

It is a screw on tee & pressure switch that can be installed without solder or freon charging tools/skills.

You will need to find the compressor wire (purple) in the harness and cut it…Then run each side of the cut to the new pressure switch.

When the pressure switch sees Hi Pressure (425psi) it interrupts the compressor power/current…It then resets itself at around 325psi…This is still High pressure and the compressor should trip the breaker when trying to re-start against that high of pressure. (if the breaker is sized correctly)

This is why you should wait to start any compressor for at least a minute after it has been shut off….To give the system time to equalize pressures internally…The motor in the compressor can't get rolling over when pushing against a lot of pressure, and will draw very high amperage trying to do so…

Let us know if you have any questions on install…Heck…Just let us know how it goes.

Steve~

Post edited 4:00 pm – June 8, 2009 by Steve Pooler

raymillsus said:

Thanks again for all your help. If it does not have the pressure switch installed if possible can I just order it from you. I am suppose to get the unit on Monday and I hope to install it one night after work. I am going to the beach next weekend so I will not be able to do it then. How long does it take in your opinion to just put the A/C unit in place and wire and attach the hoses? I am thinking around 2 hrs. Am I under estimating this job?

-Ray

Ray…It could take much less time…If I was doing it and had everything there…It would only take 20-30 min….Since it's just a previous install changeout…

But that is with the right tools at hand…I carry around the tools to do the job (of course)…It may take you a few to get them together…

A good screw gun is important, with a good 6" extension and # 2 phillips bit (sometimes you need a 7/16″ socket too),  Good wire cutting/crimping tools, and some connectors are next (for if a previously made connector breaks)  a 5/16″ nut driver for the hose clamps is good….Channel Locks to break the existing hoses loose will help a lot….Other than all that….It's pretty simple to do…Just do it the best you can….It's not Rocket Science to change out a Zepher….You CAN Do it 

Steve~

Thanks I will contact him. I was just thinking that since you have been so helpful I would give you the business.

Ok now on for the fun part.

I tried to install this unit last night. Here is my problem. I have everything wired the way I think it should be using the old wireing and here is what I have.

1. Turn on the unit to Fan and the water pump starts and the compressor starts…. No Fan.

2. When I swich the wires around I get no water pump.

3. I know it has to be a wiring issue but it is not on any wiring diagrams. I am going to still work on it but It feels good that there is cool air coming out. I still need to redo the ducting since the configuration is different.

The other thing that I am not happy about is when I pulled the old unit out there was a wire that was burnt off of the run capacitor (Red) that I do not even think the guy knows about .I wonder if that wire was connected if the old unit might still be good. What do you think? I wonder if this can be put on a bench to test?

Ray,

As far as I know…If you connected the power & pump wires (pump should be a smaller wire) to their labeled posts/screws it should work correctly unless the plug to the control is arranged differently on the newer model (Dometic said it would work)…The control is what sends the power out to the correct places for the switch position…If power comes in at the wrong place (into the control) it won't work right.

In order to verify correct plug arrangement you would need to cut/remove the protective sleeve that covers both male & female ends to see that same colored wires are connected to each other with the plugs mated…

Yes…A burnt wire off the run cap would cause the compressor to not start or run…The old unit could very well still be good…They were tough little units and being that it does not have a Hi Pressure cut out switch…Running without water (mud thing) would have likely caused the connection to burn up…It also tells me that the unit was probably full of freon…It wouldn't draw enough amperage to burn that connection if it was not full…

It may be easier for the whole install (considering ductwork) to repair that connection and put the old unit back if it's in good shape…

I'm not protecting the Cruisair guy but…Sounds like maybe the old unit would have had to be removed to repair anyway ?

Steve~