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Marine A/C Pumps and Pump Relays
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Guest

Techadmin

10:40 am August 7, 2009

We have touched on seawater cooling and lack of…Now what about if you have a intermittent problem, or the pump won't start at all ?

In boats with multiple systems running on one seawater pump there is most likely a Pump Relay to receive a signal from each system to tell the pump it needs to run…That is unless it has been bypassed and the pump runs 24/7 from the breaker ( I see this done fairly often)

Lets start with the breaker in the main panel…Most are labeled A/C pump or similar…Some boats may have the pump breaker tied in with one of the A/C system breakers (Ocean Yachts for one used to connect the pump to the Main Salon A/C Breaker) but most should have a stand alone breaker…

The breaker feeds the pump relay and carries the load of the pump only…this power can be either 115 or 230 volts depending on the pump installed…

The individual systems aboard will then have their own breaker that powers/protects each A/C system & it's wiring…These can also be 115 or 230v supplied…The reason I describe this is that some boats have a mixture of system voltages…Hatteras for example, always supplied one of the smaller systems as 115v and the rest as 230v…They would then install a 115v pump so that if all that is available on the dock is 115v, you can still have at least one cabin of A/C for crew/kids while the owners/parents go to the resort for the night without starting the generator (Well this has always been my assumption and nowadays most docks will have 230v anyway)

There have been many types of pump relays over the years…Some with mechanical relays (in previous times) but most for many years have been "ignition protected" solid state designs…Here are the most current & popular versions that I see, and a few of the most common failures…

Some were for built for only 2 systems and could not be expanded for more…Marine Air still makes a 2 unit relay (2PRP) but they also offer one that can handle up to 6 systems (6PRP) on one pump…you don't have to utilise all if you have say 3 or 4 systems, and it actually gives you spare circuits to re-connect a system to if the one it's connected to were to fail (that is if you have the 6PRP)…These relays are just a metal box with a single circuit board and all needed components on that board…Other than complete board replacement, there are no repair parts available/needed.

Cruisair went about it a bit differently…Years ago they offered one pump relay that could handle up to 8 systems on one pump (PR8X) and it came with individualised components, all of which could be replaced…The "Circuit Board" & separate" Triac" (solid state relay that switches & carries the pump current) came with the box…You could then add "Triggers" for as many units as needed, and you could also select trigger voltage (115 or 230) to match the system voltage feeding it….These triggers of course were/are replaceable with two screws & two plug on wires in the event of failure…

The only problem with this Pump Relay was the box was a bit large for smaller areas in boats that may only need 2 or three triggers…So they built a smaller box that can house all the same basic components (circuit board & triac) but only has room for up to 3 triggers…It can also be purchased with the triggers pre-installed for either 2 or 3 systems (PR3X-?) The question mark would be the number of triggers pre-installed (either 2 or 3)…They still offer the PR8X, and it can also now be purchased with triggers pre-installed but either box is not hard to add/install trigger/s in…

The main purpose of these relays is to run the pump when a system is calling for it…That means any system that is running a compressor (Some with just fan, IE: older Three knob cabin controlled systems)…But if a trigger circuit in either type box fails (Marine Air, Cruisair, or any manufacturer) the pump may run for one or more systems…But not for the one that has the failed trigger circuit…

This sometimes causes confusion because if any one of the good triggers starts the pump…All systems that are connected to that pump will get seawater, and thus run normally….

However if the system/s with the good trigger/s cycle off, and the one with the bad trigger either continues to run, or starts up with the others off…It may/should shut down randomly with a fault code on the cabin display.

The easiest thing to do to verify if you have a problem is to test run each system" individually" to verify if you are pumping water with just that system running…If you find a system that won't start the pump, the trigger circuit (in the pump relay) for that system has likely failed.

Also if the pump won't run at all…These Pump Relays all have fuses installed either inside the box (Newer automotive type pull out fuse) or in a typical twist type fuse holder mounted thru the box ( It's how Ocean Yachts gets away with running the pump on the salon breaker)…This should be one of the first things to check….If the fuse is blown, and then blows again after replacement, it's time to look at the pump & associated wiring for shorts or bad/wet connections.

These Pumps & Relays are pretty easy to troubleshoot with a volt meter and a bit of common sense, but going into that here would be a bit long for all models…If you want help with your individual installation, I'll be more that happy to answer in the forum troubleshooting section http://marine-ac.com/forum/tro…..eshooting/

Just let me know what you have and we can solve it there together…If you have another brand of equipment or model of pump relay, it's likely that I have seen a few…We can figure those out together too…

Steve~


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Guest

rcalasant

9:05 am August 16, 2009

Post edited 4:07 pm – August 23, 2009 by Steve Pooler


I have a Cruisair self contained system with 2 units  and digital control panels. It is in a 1997 Searay 370 Sundancer. When I turn on both breakers both units came on, cycled the compressor and shut down. Now only one unit compressor cycles and shuts down. The pump is not running. Nothing but the fan is running on the other unit. How do I troubleshoot?

I am not aware of a seperate pump breaker

Yes HI/PS is flashing indicating loss of water flow

Yes both controls are lit up and both units flash fault code and compressors cycle when checked individualy

Checking and cleaning the sea strainer was the first thing I did and was relatively clean, although i did notice a “fishy” odor when checking and also when I checked one of the raw water feed lines on the compressor.

The raw water pump does not appear to come on at all or attempt to

Note on this topic: In my attempt to learn how to edit & move posts (new to forum management) I guess I lost some of the content of this discussion…Sorry for that.

I was able to add back rcalasant's first question to this post but I lost a few in the process…

Steve~

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

9:52 am August 16, 2009

Post edited 2:54 pm – August 16, 2009 by Steve Pooler


Once you verify that the pump breaker is on and the fuse is good…Those pumps are very quiet btw…You will need to press the off button on each control to reset the fault, and then the system is ready to start again…

The pump should at least hum when the compressor is running…It will cycle with the compressor…So when the compressor shuts off, so will the pump.

If you have a helper…Let them watch for water over the side while you operate the control…I'd like to know if you at least get a dribble…

At this point I don't know if you have a flow problem, relay problem, or pump problem…From this end it's hard to tell until I get more info…

Steve~

Guest

rcalasant

10:07 am August 16, 2009

I have water at the pump and voltage when the compressor cycles on. We took the pump off the motor and cleaned, it rotates freely. pump humms but does not spin the impeller. There is no seperate breaker for the pump on the panel. We did notice that voltage only sent to pump when rear air compressor is turned on but have only used both at the same time and never had issue in 3 yrs.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

10:35 am August 16, 2009

Post edited 12:52 pm – August 17, 2009 by Steve Pooler


Ok…When you have the pump head & the motor separated…Does the motor magnet spin when power is applied ?

If it does not…The motor is bad…

If it does…And the impeller does not spin when the head is connected to the motor…You have a problem in the pump head…Read this post http://marine-ac.com/forum/tro…..re-switch/ (just click on the link) It was written about pumps & three knob controls but some of it applies to your system/pump as well…

If you are sure that there is no pump breaker, then the relay must be getting power from one of the A/C breakers…If either system will start the pump then all is good…But you will need to always have both system breakers on no matter which system you want to run…

If one system won't start the pump then…

Also go back & re-read the post at the beginning of this thread…It will tell you that you have a bad trigger in the pump relay that is not sending a signal to start the pump when one A/C runs….If the one A/C (that does start the pump)cycles off, and the other keeps running, it will be doing so without water flow…

This is not good and eventually will cause you more problems….We can then talk about fixing the relay…

Steve~

Guest

rcalasant

9:03 pm August 16, 2009

No it does not spin.

I am on Block Island RI for a weeks vacation, I have a new pump being delivered tommorow. I will keep you posted on outcome.

Guest

rcalasant

3:55 pm August 17, 2009

Success! It now works as it always has. Thank you so much for your assistance. I will continue as a member and learn/contribute as much as possible. thanks again.

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

7:59 am August 18, 2009

rcalasant said:

I have water at the pump and voltage when the compressor cycles on. We took the pump off the motor and cleaned, it rotates freely. pump humms but does not spin the impeller. There is no seperate breaker for the pump on the panel. We did notice that voltage only sent to pump when rear air compressor is turned on but have only used both at the same time and never had issue in 3 yrs.


Glad you got it back up & running with a new pump…

The above statement concerns me though…

If that is true…You do have a bad trigger in the pump relay and will eventually (at least) wear out the High Pressure switch on that unit…

Other things that could fail would be a Start Relay, Start Capacitor, Compressor or wires burning up from that unit running/cycling without water….

A trigger is only $37 retail.

I would at least shut off the aft unit with the fwd unit running and see if you still have water over the side…This will confirm a bad trigger if there is no flow…

Steve~

Admin

Steve Pooler

posts 1127

9:09 am April 30, 2010

Below is a copy of an e-mail to me from Robert in Austrailia…He was orginally looking for replacement parts for his Marine Air pump relay…I won't post the whole conversation but here is where it ended up…

Hi Steve: thanks for the advice, The email that followed your  today was from a local supplier who now confirmed he can supply that part so I’ll be covered. One more question, the reason I require this part was because the automatic On/Off cycling of the raw water pump could not be achieved (it use to but it appears a part on the existing PCB has burnt out). N your experience what would have been the cause for the part controlling the pump to have burnt out. Just bad luck or have you seen this problem before. Knowing the answer here may cause me to remedy some install method or operation sequence (i.e,. Turning off the pump from the boat panel circuit breaker during operation or something like that) that caused the problem in the first place. I don’t wish this problem to happen again.

Kind regards
Robert

My Response…

My comment about helping was due to I couldn't send his part to Austrailia…

Hi Robert,
 
Glad that I can maybe help in some way, and If you haven't read it already…Take a look at this link to an article I wrote on my site…  http://marine-ac.com/2009/08/0…..mp-relays/ 
It explains the basic operation of a pump relay and the most common models…
 
I think I remember (correct me if I'm wrong) you said your pump was running 24/7 when the breaker was on ?
If so, then what has failed is the pump "Triac"…It's a solid state relay that is ignition protected (no sparking when it makes contact) and carries the pump's motor load.
Usually when they fail in the closed position (always on) it's because of some sort of overload such as more amps passing thru it then it's rated to handle…Maybe a stuck pump motor ?
Or it could have been a short or surge in the chain somewhere…It's really hard to say from here not knowing if you've had troubles with your pump, or putting an amp meter on the pump to check amp draw.
 
I will say that the Cruisair pump relay has a replaceable triac (Marine Air's is part of the board) that can handle more amperage (25 amps) than the Marine Air does…I think theirs is may be rated at 10 amps…
25 amps is a bit overkill since pumps usually only draw a max of around 7.5 amps…But I don't see as many failures of the Cruisair triac as I do the Marine Air…If the Cruisair triac fails it's a $35 part, versus replacing the whole board for the Marine Air…Same with Trigger circuits with Cruisair…They are individually replaceable at around $37 ea….As well as the much smaller board at $67…
 
Two ways to think of it…With Marine Air…One part replaces everything, so only one part to carry as a spare @ $215 to $250 (depending on the relay model)…
Or with Cruisair…Individual parts…More to carry as spares, but potentially cheaper to fix…and You can have one replacement for everything in the box for a total of $139.
 
As with anything electronic on a boat with fluctuating power supply, corrosion, dampness, etc…Spares are not a bad idea unless you are always close to service & parts.
 
Also…Both pump relay boxes will work with either/any brand name of equipment…
 
Steve~

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