mmodlin said:

I downloaded the installation manuals last night

The AC wire bundle was so nicely secured I did not mess with it to test the relay. If the new unit's terminal block (left to right) is L then N for the unit with L then N for the pump followed by the ground I'm going to leave it nicely secured.

The only connections remaining form the old install are the AC wires and they functioned fine. I tested the voltage at the terminal connection when I was troubleshooting the original problem. Water flow through the forward unit has been good with the aft unit running, so as long as there is not a problem with the relay it should be okay. I guess I'll just put her in place an see what happens.

Unfortunately that installation manual dosen't show the electrical connections….You will be lucky if you don't have to make a few mods there because if I'm remembering correctly….Your old unit had the connections on a terminal strip on the top of the old electrical box…

The new Turbo will have them on the circuit board Inside the remote electrical box…The circuit board itself will have the connections labeled on the board just under the corresponding terminal (the term strip is part of, or soldered onto the board)

It should be pretty self explanatory when you get the new unit & it's box open…But that's what I'm here for if you have doubts or questions.

Steve~

Post edited 7:04 pm – July 3, 2009 by Steve Pooler

The wire connections are “Inside” the box…The box can be mounted several ways…

The unit hold downs are not fastened to the unit…They are separate and can be placed almost anywhere around the pan (they hook over the top edge of the pan) and stainless screws or lag bolts screwed down from the top should be sufficient…No real need to thru bolt them with nuts on the bottom, but you can if you like I guess…

Hose Splicers…You can use copper tubing (temporary) or 3-4″ bronze pipe nipples that will fit the hose….At least the copper tubing will get you running for the weekend, and it can be found at any Home Depot or Lowes…Just take a piece of 5/8″ hose with you to match up size & fit.

It dosen't have to be perfect because the hose will stretch or compress a bit with the hose clamps…You can neaten it up next weekend….

You can also use 4 fittings…two 1/2″ male pipe thread to 5'8″ hose barb fittings and two of the same in 1/2″ female…Just screw the male & female together with some Teflon tape on the pipe threads a Viola…You have a splicer !!

Same to you on the 4th…But I was really hoping that you could get her up & coolin

Steve~ 

Post edited 4:33 pm – August 17, 2009 by Steve Pooler

More than happy to do it Michael…That's what I'm here for ~

I must say you are a very patient man…If it were me I couldn't have waited a month to get her up & running.

When I get something new I want to play with it right away and dammed all that other stuff…LOL

Anyway from the pictures you sent me it looks like you have done a very professional job, and the time you took was spent very well !

You should now have a system to enjoy for quite some time with minimal maintenance….

Let us know if you have any questions on the programming/tweaking of the control, but it sounds like you must have a handle on it since you were able to access the low fan speed….High fan is also a setting that will affect every speed between High & Low…If it is set above the blowers actual fastest rpm…You may drop as many as 2 or 3 control speeds without noticing a difference in fan rpm…

Time delay is also something you may want to look at…Setting each unit with different compressor restart time delay can help when shifting from shore to gen or vise versa…You want to space out the surge load…

Glad you are enjoying it, Thanks for the referrals & Great Review 

Steve~